claviez



No. 6||,|04. Patented sept. 20, |898.

- E. CLAVIEZ.

DOUBLE PLUSH FABRIC.

Applcation led May 14, 1895.)

4 Sheets-Sheet I.

(Specimens.)

No. 6||,l04. Patented Sept. 20, |898.

E. CLAVIEZ.

DOUBLE PLUSH FABRIC.

(Application led May 14, 1895.)

4 Sheets-'Sheet 2.

(Specimens.)

Zasees:

afm/QQ@ Patented Sept. 20, |898.

E. CLAVIEZ.

DOUBLE PLUSH FABRIC.

(Application tiled May 14, 1895.1

4 Sheets-Sheet 3.

(Specimens.)

TH: Nonms PETERS co., PHoTaumo.. wAsmNaToN. n. c.

Patented Sept. 20, |898.

E. CLAVIEZ..

DOUBLE PLUSH FABRIC.

(Lpphcation led May 14, 1895 @www NiTED STATES PATENT Fries.

EMIL CLAVIEZ, OF CHEMNITZ, GERMANY.

DOUBLEj-PLUSH FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 61 1,104, datedSeptember 20, 1898.

Application filed May 14,1895. .Serial No. 549,303. (Specimens.)Patented in Austria January 22, 1894, No. 44/1,052; in France January31,1894,No. 235,945; in England February 16, 1894, No. 3,374, and inItaly March 31, 1894, No.

T0 all whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, EMIL OLAVIEZ, a subject of the King of Saxony, and aresident of Chemnitz, in the Kingdom of Saxony and Empire of Germany,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Double-PlushFabrics, of which the following is a specification.

My invention is embodied in patents of the following countries: Austria,No. 44 1,052, dated January 22, 1894; France, No. 235,945, dated January31, 1894; Great Britain, No. 3,374, dated February 16, 1394, and Italy,No. 36,100dated March 31, 1894.

In the process of manufacturing woven pile fabric or multicoloredjacquard double plush it has heretofore not been possible to,

produce even designs, such as are required for the production ofcarriage-robes, curtains, quilts, &c.

According to the present invention a woven pile fabric or multicoloredjacquard double plush-that is to say, two tissues, one above theothercan be produced which are exactly alike with respect to the designor image of the plush. The colored threads necessary for the productionof the design of the plush are, however, not hidden in one ground fabricat the places at which they do not form plush, but they are divided fromthe two ground fabrics, being superposed one above the other and beingnow produced simultaneously. If, for instance, a color being otherwisecovered in the upper ground fabric should suddenly appear in the plush,the corresponding plushthread passes from the upper fabric to the lowerfabric and is bound in by a special shuttle-throw or the so-calledstitching weft. Should, further, a color appear in the plush which hasbeen covered in the lower fabric, the respective plush thread passesfrom below upward and is there also bound in by a special shuttle-throwor the so-called stitching weft. After carrying in a stitching-weft asecond throw of the groundshuttle is executed either for the one or theother fabric, being designed to give to the whole fabric a more solidground and a better hold.V .For the manufacture of such a tissue shaftsand harnesses are necessary. The

shafts are used to make the two ground fabrics,`one above the other,while the harnesses or the harness parts effect the binding of theplush-threads in the faces of the upper and the lower fabrics,respectively. These shafts and the harnesses are divided into twoparts-A one forming plush for the upper fabric and the other formingplush for the lower fabric-and operate in such a manner that the threadsof the plush and of the ground never cross during the weaving and are soarranged that they go back to their normal position after every strokeof the shuttle. The shuttle is thrown twice, once in each fabric, andthereby a double fabric is produced, which after the cutting of theplush furnishes two single fabrics having everywhere even and pureplush.

1n order that my invention may be fully understood, I will proceed todescribe it with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which-Figure 1 is a longitudinal section showing a portion of my double fabricin course of construction and the normal position of the shafts and theharness parts of the loom, in which the plush-threads run parallel andcover each other reciprocally in the upper and lower fabric. Fig. 2 is alongitudinal section showing one part of the double fabric where theplush-threads of the lower fabricv are bound into the upper fabric, thegroundthreads of both fabrics not being represented. Fig. 3 is alongitudinal section of that part of the double fabric where the plusb-threads of the upper fabric are bound into thelower fabric. Fig. '4shows the grounds alone in longitudinal section. Fig. 5 shows the wholedouble fabric in longitudinal section, the plushthreads being shownbodily covering each other in the upper fabric and binding downwardlywith the plush-threads of the lower fabric, which bind upwardly. Fig. 6is a detail plan view of the top of the double fabric. Fig. 7 is adetail transverse section thereof on the line 7 7, Fig. 6. Fig. S is adetail horizontal section on the line 8' 8, Fig. 5, showing a top planView of the lowerv piece of the'rdivided fabric. Fig. 9 showsV theposition of the shafts and harness parts and the double fabric when IOOthe upper ground-weft has been thrown in. Fig. 10 shows the position ofthe shafts and harness parts when the lower ground-weft has been thrownin. Fig. 11 shows the position of the shafts and harness parts when theupper quilting-weft is thrown in. Fig. 12 shows the position of theshafts and harness parts when the lower quilting-weft is thrown in. Fig.13 shows the position of the shafts and harness parts when the nextupper ground-weft is thrown in. Fig. 14 is a tabular statement settingforth the positions of the shafts and harness parts at each stroke ofhalf-periods.

1 are the ground-threads of the upper fabric, and 2 are thegroundthreads of the lower fabric, forming the foundation of my improveddouble plush.

3 are the pile-threads of the upper fabric, and 4 are the pile-threadsof the lower fabric.

5 and G are parts of the harness that move the pile-threads 4 of thelower fabric, and 7 and S are parts of the harness that move the pile-`threads 3 of the upper fabric.

11 and 12 are the shafts for the groundthread 1 of the upper fabric, and9 and 10 are the shafts for the ground-threads 2 of the lower fabric.

s' s3 are the stitching-wefts, binding fast the plush-threads above, andg g3 represent the ground-wefts in the upper fabric.

. s2 s" are those stitching-wefts which bind the plush into the lowergoods.

G2 G4 represent the ground-wefts of the lower fabric.

The differentdesignations of the shafts and harnesses should notmislead, as they are solely designed to serve to the diagrammaticalillustration of the tissue.

In Figs. 1, 9, lO, 11, 12, and 13 it is shown how the coloredplush-threads, being represented by lines of different character, aredivided upon two groups of harness 5 6 7 8 in a common jacquard machinein such way that one group of harness receives one part of the coloredplush-threads and the other group of the harness receives the other partof the same. Thus in Fig. 9 the group of harness 7 and S carries theplush-threads 3 of the upper fabric and the group of harness 5 and Gcarries the plush-threads 4 of the lower fabric. Each group musttherefore be divided in as many parts as it is required to carrythreads. In the accompanying figures four colors of plush-threads areshown as an example, so that one part is divided into the parts 5 and 6and into the parts 7 and 8. The ground-binding of the upper and lowerfabric is shown separate from each other and is indicated in thedrawings by lines made of dashes. The shafts for the ground-binding ofthe lower fabric are designated here with the numerals 9 and 10, theshafts of the upper ground fabric with 1l and 12.

The wefts serving for the fastening of the plush-chain parts, and whichare called here stitching-wefts, for the sake of simplicity are markedwith the letter s, and the groundwefts are marked with the letter g.Moreover, the shafts are shown, for greater clearness, a little fartherapart than in practice, so that the warp-eyes of the several groups ofshafts 9 lO l1 12, being otherwise in one plane, are shown in thepresent case somewhat apart. The same must be said of the groups ofharness 5 G 7 S.

The process of manufacturing this fabric can be explained in thefollowing manner: Then the shafts and the harness parts in Fig. 9 are insuch a position that the groundweft g can be thrown in, all plush-chainthreads 3 of the upper fabric, and also the harness parts 7 and 8, aswell as the shaft 11, must be lowered, so that in the middle plane ofthe plush-tissue the corresponding shed is formed for the weft g/ to bethrown into the upper fabric.

In Fig. 9 the position is shown inwhich the ground-weft g has beenthrown in. Vhen this is effected, the hatten moves the groundweft gf inthe direction of the arrow and is beaten against the fabric. At the sametime the parts of harness 7 andB and the shafts return into their normalposition. lVhen this is effected and while the batten returns, the partsof harness 5 and 6 and the shafts 9 are lifted and the groundweft g1 isthrown into the lower fabric in the position shown in Fig. 10. The saineis beaten bythe batten in the direction of the arrow, and the harnessparts 5 and 6 and shaft 9 are brought back into theirnormal position.Herefrom results that the two ground-wefts are thrown in one after theother. After this the next stitching-weft must be thrown into the upperfabric, and from the lower fabric these plush-threads are lifted, whichshould appear in the plush. Suppose at this point the color shouldappear in the plush part represented by the line dash-dot-dot-dash andin this part the harness part 6 is lifted and the shaft is lowered, Fig.11, so that again in the middle plane of the fabric a shed is formed andthe stitchingweft s3, designed for the upper fabric, can be thrown in.The same is beaten in by the batteri in the direction of the arrow andthe part of harness and shaft return into their normal position. Thenthis is done, the second stitching-weft is thus thrown into the lowerfabric, and to this end from the upper fabric that row of plush-ehainthreads is lowered which should appear in the plush. Suppose a colorshould appear in the plush represented by the line dash-dot. ln thiscase the shaft 9 is lifted, Fig. 12, the harness part 7 is lowered, thestitching-weft .S4 is thrown in, and shafts and harness brought to theirnormal position. It is self-evident th at during this procedure thethread of plush chain represented by the line dash-dot-dotdash is alsobound in, for the reason that it belongs to the lower fabric and that itserves for the completion of the design resulting from the plush-chainparts at the left being IOO IIO

bound in upwardly. Vhen now both quilting-wefts are thrown in, the playshown in Fig. 9 is repeated-t'. e., all plush-chain threads of the upperfabric are lowered and a new groundweft g3 is thrown in. To this end theharness parts 7 and 8 and shaft 12 must be lowered so that Fig. 13corresponds to the starting, Fig. 9. Thus it can be seen that in factthe plush-chain threads do not cross but run parallel to each otherduring the work. The plush thus obtained is cut between the fabrics, andthe separated fabric partsare rolled upon beams. This new process ofmanufacture is also characterized by the introduction of a ground-weftafter the lifting and lowering of the harness parts. The hatten havingbeaten home the wefts, the shafts and harness parts go back to theirnormal position and the hatten beats a second time, so that both goodsremain completely separate from each other.

The complete binding of the fabric represented in Fig. 5 is eected ineight periods. In the first half the shafts and harness parts take theposition for the introduction of the respective weft, and in the secondhalf they go back to their normal position. At the end of eachhalf-period the batteri strikes.

The shaft or harness parts to be lifted or lowered and the ground-weftsto be introduced each time can easily be seen from the accompanyingtable, (shown in Fig. 14.) It should be observed, besides, that in thefirst and ,fifth period, during which the wefts are introduced for theupper fabricthe whole harness 5 G is down and that in the second andsixth period, during which the wefts for the lower fabric areintroduced, the whole harness 7 8 is up, while in the remaining periodsonly the cords of the harness are lifted and lowered, the chain threadsof which are intended to form velvet in both goods, according to thepattern.

Having thus described my invention, the following is what I claim as newtherein and desire to secure by Letters Patent:

The double-plush-fabric blank comprising upper and lower grounds eachcomposed of ground-warps and ground and stitching wefts, series of upperand lower pile warp-threads extending approximately parallel to eachother from the upper ground to and from the lower ground and-vice versa,and the stitching-wefts alternating with the ground-wefts in each groundand securing the pile-threads to the faces of the grounds; theground-wefts and stitching-wefts of the upper fabric alternating inposition with the ground-wefts and stitching-wefts respectively of thelower fabric and vice versa; substantially as described.

In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of twowitnesses.

EMIL CLAVIEZ..

Witnesses:

PAUL SCHULZ, Luo RoJEwsKI.

